WineLeaks #2
Barolo Barolo Barolo, Penfolds & Solaia, smoke taint + Pool on Barolo
Welcome to In the mood for wine — a weekly newsletter on wine for the next gen of wine lovers and investors. This is WineLeaks, a curated overview of the wine market, which will be with you every Monday at 10 a.m. (London time).
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In case you’ve missed it, I’ve compiled a work-in-progress database of all vintages reports in all the major investment regions and a list with all my favourite wine experts. Check them out, and if I’ve missed anyone feel free to mention them in the comments.
New Wine Reports
Barolo 2018 Vintage Report: I summarised the vintage report from the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani (for your review, in the Vintage Database) and combined it with Decanter’s and TWI’s notes.
Official map of Barolo’s DOCG region and its Crus.
Winter:
The 2018 vintage opened with a cold, long, wet winter, that lasted until the beginning of March, leading to a slow and gradual vegetative restart of the vine.
Spring:
The budding was uniform, no issues reported with frost. However, fungal concerns arose due to the abundant rainfall, between the end of May and early June.
Fruit set took place regularly. Abundant.
Summer:
The summer season started gradually, with the temperatures rising significantly from mid-July, which, accompanied by a long period of stable good weather, favoured the ripening of the grapes.
The data available shows a moderate estimated alcoholic content which, along with a sufficiently high acidity content, promotes the aromatic flavours in the berries.
Harvest:
The Nebbiolo arrived at the harvest according to the classic timing, i.e. with the beginning of October (3 Oct), except for Brunate and Cannubi (warmer sites), where harvest started a week earlier (26 Sep). The harvesting operations lasted about three weeks.
Sugar levels increased in the last stretch of the season and an acceleration of phenolic maturity, both within the Barolo and in the Barbaresco areas, which made it possible to reach the harvest with excellent parameters.
Overall score:
The Consorzio described the vintage as the return to a “classic“ Barolo; Decanter gave it 3/5, warning that some village-level Barolos show dilution; TWI also emphasised the importance of location and soil. “For example,” Susan Hulme MW notes “many of the wines from Cannubi, a warm site with sandy soil, scored well in my tastings of 2018.”
While 2018 might not have what it takes to be a great vintage, (“but only because the ageing potential is supposedly shorter”), 2019 seems to be a promising one for Barolo — as it is for Barbaresco. Watch this space.
Wines that received high praises:
(prices are as of Jul 21, 2022)
2018 Bruno Giacosa Barolo @ £105 - £114 /750ml bottle
2018 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate @ £286 /750ml bottle
Note that the 2016 vintage (a “good vintage“) has nearly doubled in price from its release price in September 2020 according to wine-searcher. However, the 2017 vintage price has barely moved.
2018 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste @ £119 /750ml bottle
This brand’s 2017 & 2016 have appreciated 40%-50% since their respective release date, while previous vintages are seeing a drop from their initial price.
2018 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne @ £ 94 /750ml bottle
2018 Vietti Barolo Monvigliero @ £250 - £340 /750ml bottle (individual bottles)
2018 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche @ £103 - £144 / 750ml bottle
2018 GB Burlotto Barolo Castelletto (Decanter seems to think it’s available from Crop & Vine @ £460 /750ml bottle — but I couldn’t find it on their website)
2018 Giovanni Rosso Barolo La Serra @ £45 - £54 /750ml bottle
2018 Palladino Parafada
2018 Giacomo Conterno Arione @ £475 /magnum
What to Read
“Fires in Bordeaux: is there a risk of smoke taint for the 2022 vintage?“ (janeanson.com)
“As of 1pm Wednesday July 20, almost 20,600 hectares of land, mainly forest, have been destroyed”, writes Jane Anson about the fires that broke out in Bordeaux. “Fires are not unknown in Bordeaux – both the 1949 and 1989 vintage saw many thousand hectares of forest burning – but these are the worst I have experienced in almost 20 years in the region. […] The CIVB wine bureau has said that no vineyards have been impacted, and consultants are cautiously optimistic.”
As Europe is plagued by heatwaves and wildfires, smoke taint will become an increasingly topical issue (especially in second wines). Few more reads on this. “Confessions of a smoke-taint taster“ on jancisrobinson.com describing the aromas of smoke taint: “Smoke taint involves more than just the unpleasant classic aromas of campfire, ash and wood smoke. Tasters experience elevated levels of perceived tannins and alcohol; the wine tastes rougher and hotter than it actually is. With training, which I do not recommend, you can often smell the base fuel from the fire, such as a pine campfire aroma from a pine forest“.
Scientific research: the Australian Wine Research Institute on the risks “Smoke taint – entry into grapes and vineyard risk factors“ and the Department of Agriculture and Food Western Australia on the effects “Effect of smoke in grape and wine production” highlight the most vulnerable times for grapes to be affected by smoke taint.
“The Penfolds Collection 2022 sees two new Bordeaux wines join an increasingly global family: 2019 Penfolds FWT and 2019 Penfolds II“ (Decanter) ($)
Penfolds, Penfolds, Penfolds. More Penfolds. Overall encouraging reviews between 91 - 94 points.
“Solaia is a strong performer and has enjoyed price appreciation across all vintages on the platform over the last 12 months, albeit at a slightly lesser rate than Tignanello, which posted an average 12-month gain of 31%.” (Bordeaux Index)
Market update of Solaia:
Also, if you are not using BI’s LiveTrade — you should give it a try.
“The vines are happy and healthy and are not showing signs of stress” (Inside Burgundy)
Jasper Morris outlines a positive mid-season weather report from Burgundy.
Pool
In the mood for wine was born with the idea of creating a community of fine wine nerds and investors.
It would be interesting to get a feel about the 2018 Barolo campaign — share your thoughts about it, and I look forward to reading in the comments which names you are thinking of adding to your shopping list and why!👇🏻
Or anything else.
Until next Monday,
In the mood for wine (a.k.a. Sara Danese)
I just noticed that prices of the Barolos have increased since I finish writing this article on Friday! 🫣